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Proloog

Järgmine

 

Cornwall-London 05.05...10.05.2017
 

Lizard Point


Kui ma ausalt pean tunnistama, miks minna Cornwalli, siis takkajärgi võiks öelda - aga miks mitte? Hea siider, cornwalli pirukas, imeline rannik, mis on paksult läbipõimunud mitmetuhandeaastasest ajaloost - noid verstaposte seal võib leida kaugelt enne roomlaste tulekut, kuningas Arthur ja Rosamunde Pilcher. Ja just viimast võib süüdistada minu huvi tekitamises Cornwalli vastu. Ma ei ole küll lugenud ühtegi lugupeetud romantilise novellisti teost (ja kardetavasti ei viitsi vist ka lugeda), kuid kogemata olen sattunud poole silmaga mõnele tema raamatute põhjal treitud TV-variandile. Ühes neist - ma ei mäleta selle loo nime - tegeles nimitegelane Cornwalli vaatamisväärsustest kirjutamisega. Misiganes see stoori oli, kuid riburadapidi käidi läbi mitu Cornwalli tähtpunkti ja kimati ilusate autodega mööda hingematvate vaadetega rannikut. Noist piltidest piisas... Või tegelikult aitas kaasa ka üks artikkel Postimehes... Ja kui tekkis idee teha ettevõttega üks motivatsiooni- ja õppereis kusagile, panin ette minna Kuningas Arthuri maale, pisut müütilisele maatükikesele, mille viimased autonoomiariismed keeras lõplikult kinni alles Henry VIII... Enne minekut lendasin mitu head tundi guugli mäpiga poolsaare kohal ja valisin välja kohti vaatamiseks - leidudest jätkunuks vähemalt kuuse tiheda ekspeditsiooni jaoks... Seega jätsime valiku kohapeale - vastavalt sellele, kuidas ilm, puhkepäevad, valepoolne liiklus jm asjad liikumist lubavad...

 

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Seekordne reisikiri ei ole aga nagu päris reisikiri. Ma ei pannud üle pika aja reisil kirja omi mõtteid, kuidagi kujunes niiviisi välja. Seepärast kasutan alljärgnevalt tekstides pigem WIkipedia, National Trusti ja English Heritage abi ning omi emotsioone esitlen läbi fotode. Tänud Karlile paari hea sihtkoha-vihje eest, Janikale siira reisirõõmu eest, Gerlyle öömajade otsimise-bronnimise eest, Tanelile rendiauto ajamise, Mardile sellega sõitmise ja hilisema Londoni-maksu jagelemise eest ning Heikile lennupiletitega tegelemise eest!

 

Nii ta siis oli...


Fotod: Sulev Nurme

 

St Yves

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Järgmine  | Üles |


 

05.05.2017. Stansted

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Lennujaamarõõmud

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Uus UK sõber järgnevateks päevadeks: Vauxhall Vivaro

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05.05.2017. Stansted-Kennford

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Esimesed muljed...

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Esimene lõuna peale piinarikast esimest tundi kiirteel: fish and chips ja Guinness. The Holly Tree. Englefield Green

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Stonehenge. Ma olen noid kivihunnikuid näha tahtnud alati. Eelmisel korral näidati vaid vilksti bussiaknast, sel korral jõudsime peale ametlikku sulgemist...

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Wikipedia kirjutab Stonehengest:

Stonehenge is a prehistoric monument in Wiltshire, England, 2 miles (3 km) west of Amesbury and 8 miles (13 km) north of Salisbury. Stonehenge consists of ring of standing stones, with each standing stone around 4.1 metres (13 ft) high, 2.1 metres (6 ft 11 in) wide and weighing around 25 tons. The stones are set within earthworks in the middle of the most dense complex of Neolithic and Bronze Age monuments in England, including several hundred burial mounds.
Archaeologists believe it was constructed from 3000 BC to 2000 BC. The surrounding circular earth bank and ditch, which constitute the earliest phase of the monument, have been dated to about 3100 BC. Radiocarbon dating suggests that the first bluestones were raised between 2400 and 2200 BC, although they may have been at the site as early as 3000 BC.
One of the most famous landmarks in the UK, Stonehenge is regarded as a British cultural icon. It has been a legally protected Scheduled Ancient Monument since 1882 when legislation to protect historic monuments was first successfully introduced in Britain. The site and its surroundings were added to UNESCO's list of World Heritage Sites in 1986. Stonehenge is owned by the Crown and managed by English Heritage; the surrounding land is owned by the National Trust.
Loe edasi...

Üle põllu...

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Blackdown Hills

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Exeter Court Hotel. Kennford

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Kennford, siider ja unustamatu külmutatud pizza Seven Stars'is

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06.05.2017. Kennford-Looe

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Exeter Cathedral Green

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Wikipedia kirjutab Exeterist:

Exeter was the most south-westerly Roman fortified settlement in Britain, although there is evidence a Cornish tribe existed in Exeter before the Roman invasion. Exeter became a religious centre during the Middle Ages and into the Tudor times: Exeter Cathedral, founded in the mid 11th century, became Anglican during the 16th-century English Reformation. During the late 19th century, Exeter became an affluent centre for the wool trade, although by the First World War the city was in decline. After the Second World War, much of the city centre was rebuilt and is now considered to be a centre for modern business and tourism in Devon and Cornwall. Loe edasi...

 

Exeteri katedraal

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Exetery katedraali lugu võib kuulata: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mxK-GTo-9tM, Wikipedia võtab selle suurepärase hoone kokku alljärgnevalt:

The founding of the cathedral at Exeter, dedicated to Saint Peter, dates from 1050, when the seat of the bishop of Devon and Cornwall was transferred from Crediton because of a fear of sea-raids. A Saxon minster already existing within the town (and dedicated to Saint Mary and Saint Peter) was used by Leofric as his seat, but services were often held out of doors, close to the site of the present cathedral building.

In 1107 William Warelwast, a nephew of William the Conqueror, was appointed to the see, and this was the catalyst for the building of a new cathedral in the Norman style. Its official foundation was in 1133, during Warelwast's time, but it took many more years to complete. Following the appointment of Walter Bronescombe as bishop in 1258, the building was already recognized as outmoded, and it was rebuilt in the Decorated Gothic style, following the example of nearby Salisbury. However, much of the Norman building was kept, including the two massive square towers and part of the walls. It was constructed entirely of local stone, including Purbeck Marble. The new cathedral was complete by about 1400, apart from the addition of the chapter house and chantry chapels.

Like most English cathedrals, Exeter suffered during the Dissolution of the Monasteries, but not as much as it would have done had it been a monastic foundation. Further damage was done during the English Civil War, when the cloisters were destroyed. Following the restoration of Charles II, a new pipe organ was built in the cathedral by John Loosemore. Charles II's sister Henrietta Anne of England was baptised here in 1644. During the Victorian era, some refurbishment was carried out by George Gilbert Scott.

During the Second World War, Exeter was one of the targets of a German air offensive against British cities of cultural and historical importance, which became known as the "Baedeker Blitz". On 4 May 1942 an early-morning air raid took place over Exeter. The cathedral sustained a direct hit by a large high-explosive bomb on the chapel of St James, completely demolishing it. The muniment room above, three bays of the aisle and two flying buttresses were also destroyed in the blast. The medieval wooden screen opposite the chapel was smashed into many pieces by the blast, but it has been reconstructed and restored.[3] Many of the cathedral's most important artifacts, such as the ancient glass (including the great east window), the misericords, the bishop's throne, the Exeter Book, the ancient charters (of King Athelstan and Edward the Confessor) and other precious documents from the library had been removed in anticipation of such an attack. The precious effigy of Walter Branscombe had been protected by sand bags.[4] Subsequent repairs and the clearance of the area around the western end of the building uncovered portions of earlier structures, including remains of the Roman city and of the original Norman cathedral.
Loe edasi...

 

Exeter

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Forda

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Läbi Dartmoori... Baskerville'ide koera hirmus...

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Tamari jõgi. New Bridge Hilli sild.  Welcome to Cornwall! 

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Cornwall... Esimesed miilid

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Cotehele Gardens

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National Trusti kodulehelt võib Cotehele kohta lugeda:

Probably originating circa 1300, the main phases of building appear to have been started by Sir Richard Edgcumbe from 1485–89 and followed by his son, Sir Piers Edgcumbe, from 1489-1520. This house is one of the least altered of the Tudor houses in the United Kingdom. The outbuildings include a stone dovecote in a remarkable state of preservation. For centuries a home of the Edgcumbe family, it was the first property to be accepted by the Treasury in payment of death duty. The house and estate are now under the care of the National Trust. Loe edasi...

 

Kasutaja Sulev Nurme foto.

Cotehele peahoone

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Kuulsad Cotehele õunaaiad. Lootusetult haigeid puid püütakse päästa päris huvitaval viisil: puud tulbastatakse, köntide külge poogitakse resistentsete sortide oksad.

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Cotehele...

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Cotehele: lilleaed

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Cotehele: park

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Restomeli kindlus... Kui Arno isaga parklasse jõudis, oli piletimüüja juba  koju läinud ja pildistada võis vaid infotahvlit ja lambakarjamaad

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Wikipedia ja English Heritage kirjutavad Restomelist:

It is one of the four chief Norman castles of Cornwall, the others being Launceston, Tintagel and Trematon. The castle is notable for its perfectly circular design. Although once a luxurious residence of the Earl of Cornwall, the castle was all but ruined by the 16th century. It was briefly reoccupied and fought over during the English Civil War but was subsequently abandoned. Now in the care of English Heritage, it is open to the public.
Located on a spur of high ground overlooking the River Fowey, Restormel Castle is an unusually well-preserved example of a circular shell keep, a rare type of fortification built during a short period in the 12th and early 13th centuries. Only 71 examples are known in England and Wales, of which Restormel Castle is the most intact of all. Such castles were built by converting a wooden motte-and-bailey castle through replacing the external palisade with a stone wall and filling the internal bailey with stone domestic buildings, clustered around the inside of the wall to form a defensive bailey; the buildings are curved to fit into the shell keep, in an extreme example of the 13th century trend.
Loe edasi...

 

 

Fowey. Readymoney walk. Vihmane matk Catherine kindlusse

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Fowey maalilise ranniku üks võtmepunkte on St Catherine kindlus. Wikipedia kirjutab:

St Catherine's Castle (Cornish: Kastel S. Kattrin) is a Henrician castle in Cornwall, built by Thomas Treffry between approximately 1538 and 1540, in response to fears of an invasion of England by France and the Holy Roman Empire. The D-shaped, stone fortification, equipped with five gun-ports for cannon, overlooked the mouth of the River Fowey in Cornwall. It was protected by a curtain wall and the surrounding cliffs. The castle remained in use for many years until it was closed at the end of the Napoleonic Wars in 1815. Brought back into service in 1855 during the Crimean War, it was fitted with two new artillery positions, but it soon became obsolete and was abandoned. During the Second World War the castle was refortified and used to house a battery of naval guns, protecting the coast against the threat of German attack. At the end of the conflict the castle was restored to its previous condition and is now managed by English Heritage as a tourist attraction. Loe edasi...

 

Fowey. Fowey jõesuue. St Catherine'st

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Fowey. St Catherine

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Karulauguvaip. Fowey. St Catherine walk.

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Fowey

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Looe

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Looe by Bridgeside Questhouse

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Looe quai  -  tõenäoliselt parim fish'n chipsi lounge maailmas. Btw - don't feed seagulls!

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Looe. Õhtu. 1.1 Mpix

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07.05.2017. Looe - Constantine

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Looe greifid

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Selle päeva hommikupooliku veetsime Eedeni aias. Õigemini Edeni kasvuhoonetes. Wikipeedia kirjutab Edeni sissejuhatuseks nii:

Inside the two biomes are plants that are collected from many diverse climates and environments. The project is located in a reclaimed Kaolinite pit, located 2 km (1.2 mi) from the town of St Blazey and 5 km (3 mi) from the larger town of St Austell, Cornwall.
The complex is dominated by two huge enclosures consisting of adjoining domes that house thousands of plant species, and each enclosure emulates a natural biome. The biomes consist of hundreds of hexagonal and pentagonal, inflated, plastic cells supported by steel frames. The largest of the two biomes simulates a Rainforest environment and the second, a Mediterranean environment. The attraction also has an outside botanical garden which is home to many plants and wildlife native to Cornwall and the UK in general; it also has many plants that provide an important and interesting backstory, for example, those with a prehistoric heritage.

 

At the bottom of the pit are two covered biomes:
The Tropical Biome, covers 1.56 ha (3.9 acres) and measures 55 m (180 ft) high, 100 m (328 ft) wide, and 200 m (656 ft) long. It is used for tropical plants, such as fruiting banana plants, coffee, rubber and giant bamboo, and is kept at a tropical temperature and moisture level.
The Mediterranean Biome covers 0.654 ha (1.6 acres) and measures 35 m (115 ft) high, 65 m (213 ft) wide, and 135 m (443 ft) long. It houses familiar warm temperate and arid plants such as olives and grape vines and various sculptures.
Loe edasi...

Edeni bioomid

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Eden Project

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Zigsag

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Vihmametsas....

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Mulli sees

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Pilvemetsas

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Ülekuumenemise vastu aitab jahtumisruum

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Vahemerelises kasvuhoones

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Õudne nägemus Bacchusest

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Avenue of Senses

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The Core

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The Eden Project

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Lost Gardens of Heligani kohta kirjutab Wikipeedia niiviisi:

The Lost Gardens of Heligan (Cornish: Lowarth Helygen, meaning "willow tree garden"), near Mevagissey in Cornwall, are one of the most popular botanical gardens in the UK. The place name, properly pronounced 'h'LIG'n', and not the commonly heard 'HEL-i-gun', is derived from the Cornish word helygen, "willow tree".The gardens are typical of the 19th century Gardenesque style with areas of different character and in different design styles. The gardens were created by members of the Cornish Tremayne family from the mid-18th century to the beginning of the 20th century, and still form part of the family's Heligan estate. The gardens were neglected after the First World War and restored only in the 1990s, a restoration that was the subject of several popular television programmes and books. The gardens include aged and colossal rhododendrons and camellias, a series of lakes fed by a ram pump over 100 years old, highly productive flower and vegetable gardens, an Italian garden, and a wild area filled with subtropical tree ferns called "The Jungle". The gardens also have Europe's only remaining pineapple pit, warmed by rotting manure, and two figures made from rocks and plants known as the Mud Maid and the Giant's Head. Loe edasi...

 

Heiligan Gardens

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Piilub... Giants Head

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Mud Maid

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Brexit... Mänguväljak, mis ei vasta ühelegi EN1166/1167 nõudele...

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Putukahotell

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Džungel

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Saja-aastases rododendronivõsas

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Itaalia aed

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Tarbeaed

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Truro - Cornwalli pealinn... Peaaegu mõttetu koht

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Kasutaja Sulev Nurme foto.

Truro... Kord selle kõrtsu ees ma...

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Falmouth

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Pendennis Head. Kindluse taga "metsas"

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Pendennise kindlus ja Pendnnise neem Wikipeedias:

Pendennis Castle is an artillery fort constructed by Henry VIII near Falmouth, Cornwall, England between 1540 and 1542. It formed part of the King's Device programme to protect against invasion from France and the Holy Roman Empire, and defended the Carrick Roads waterway at the mouth of the River Fal. The original, circular keep and gun platform was expanded at the end of the century to cope with the increasing Spanish threat, with a ring of extensive stone ramparts and bastions built around the older castle. Pendennis saw service during the English Civil War, when it was held by the Royalists, and was only taken by Parliament after a long siege in 1646. It survived the interregnum and Charles II renovated the fortress after his restoration to the throne in 1660.

Ongoing concerns about a possible French invasion resulted in Pendennis's defences being modernised and upgraded in the 1730s and again during the 1790s; during the Napoleonic Wars, the castle held up to 48 guns. In the 1880s and 1890s an electrically operated minefield was laid across the River Fal, operated from Pendennis and St Mawes, and new, quick-firing guns were installed to support these defences. The castle saw service during both the First and Second World Wars, but in 1956, by now obsolete, it was decommissioned. It passed into the control of the Ministry of Works, who cleared away many of the more modern military buildings and opened the site to visitors. In the 21st century, the castle is managed by English Heritage as a tourist attraction, receiving 74,230 visitors in 2011–12.The heritage agency Historic England considers Pendennis to be "one of the finest examples of a post-medieval defensive promontory fort in the country".
Loe edasi...

 

"Appi! mul on siin üks neljakümneaastane laps!"

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Kindluse taga "metsas" II

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Constantine Road. Cider Sunset

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Constantine

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08.05.2017. Constantine - St Ives

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Lizard Point

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Wikipeedia:

Lizard Point is the most southerly point on mainland Great Britain at 49° 57' 30" N. With the exception of parts of the Isles of Scilly it is the southernmost part of England. Loe edasi...

 

Lizard Point

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Minu magav lõvi... Lizard Pointis

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Mount St Michaeli Cornwalli versioon

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Cornwalli Püha Miikaeli mägi on oma Normandia teisikust pisut väiksem ning "rahulikuma" looga. Wikipeedia kirjutab...

Historically, St Michael's Mount was a Cornish counterpart of Mont Saint-Michel in Normandy, France (with which it shares the same tidal island characteristics and the same conical shape, in spite of being much smaller), when it was given to the Benedictine religious order of Mont Saint-Michel by Edward the Confessor in the 11th century. Loe edasi...

 

Tõelised palverändurid lähevad saarele mõõna ajal jalgsi. Meie ei ole palverändurid...

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Miikaeli mägi

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Kasutaja Sulev Nurme foto.

Pisike eramu... Mälestus Miikaeli mäe kloostrist

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Miikaeli mäe palvela

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Golfimängijad. Pilt härrastemaja galeriist...

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Giants Heart... aga väike

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St Michaels Gardens

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Marazion

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Merry Maidens: Mini-Stonehenge

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Wikipeedia:

The circle, which is thought to be complete, comprises nineteen granite megaliths and is situated in a field alongside the B3315 between Newlyn and Land's End. The stones are approximately 1.2 metres high, with the tallest standing 1.4 metres. They are spaced three to four metres apart with a larger gap between the stones on the east side. The circle is approximately twenty-four metres in diameter. To the south is another stone which suggests a possible north-south orientation. In earlier times there was another stone circle located 200 metres away, but this had been destroyed by the end of the 19th century. 300 metres to the northeast are The Pipers – two 3-metre-high standing stones. These have been described as "largest surviving standing stones in Cornwall and probably the best known". The Tregiffian Burial Chamber is nearby. Loe edasi...

/.../

The Tregiffian Burial Chamber.The large stone grave, half of which was covered by a road in 1846, was, unlike Cornish quoits, for the most part covered with soil, with only the entrance exposed. From the edge of the site a passage, covered by four 3 m long stones, led to the 4-metre deep grave chamber. In front of the chamber, a cross-lying ornate stone, with cup-and-ring markings, formed a barrier. The original stone is in Truro, in the Royal Cornwall Museum, the local stone is a replica. Inside the tomb there was the chamber grave, which consisted of upright stones and a cover slab. Tregiffian probably formed a holy place with the Merry Maidens and other sites. Loe edasi...

 

Tangivad...

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Tregiffiani hauakamber

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Lands End

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Taas ühes maailma lõpus

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Penzance

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St Ives. The Western Hotel reception

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09.05.2017. St Ives - Bath

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The Western Hotel, St Ives

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St Ives

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The Tate St Ives

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St Ives Wikipeedias:

The town lies north of Penzance and west of Camborne on the coast of the Celtic Sea. In former times it was commercially dependent on fishing. The decline in fishing, however, caused a shift in commercial emphasis, and the town is now primarily a popular seaside resort, notably achieving the title of Best UK Seaside Town from the British Travel Awards in both 2010 and 2011. St Ives was incorporated by Royal Charter in 1639. St Ives has become renowned for its number of artists. It was named best seaside town of 2007 by The Guardian newspaper. Loe edasi...

 

Long walk to Chysauster

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Life in Chysauster Village

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Chysauster: 2000 aasta vanused (küla)maastikud

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Lanyon Qouiti dolmen Wikipeedias:

Lanyon Quoit currently has three support stones which stand to a height of 1.5 metres.These bear a capstone which is 5.5 metres long, and which weighs more than 12 tonnes. In the 18th century the quoit had four supporting stones and the structure was tall enough for a person on horse back to ride under. On 19 October 1815, Lanyon Quoit fell down in a storm. Nine years later enough money was raised by local inhabitants to re-erect the structure, under the guidance of Captain Giddy of the Royal Navy. One of the original stones was considered too badly damaged to put back in place, thus there are only three uprights today and the structure does not stand as high as it once did.The reconstruction also placed the structure at right angles to its original position. The quoit lies at the north end of a long barrow 26 metres long and 12 metres wide. The barrow, which is covered by grass and bracken, is damaged and its outline is difficult to see. At the south end of the barrow are some more large stones which may be the remains of one or more cists. Loe edasi...

Vihmavarjus

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Cornwall...

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Tintageli tee

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Kasutaja Sulev Nurme foto.

Tintageli linnus

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Englis Heritage lehelt võib Kuningas Arthuri lossi kohta lugeda järgmist:

History and legend are inseparable at Tintagel. During the so-called Dark Ages (about the 5th to the 7th centuries AD) it was an important stronghold, and probably a residence of rulers of Cornwall. Many fragments of luxury pottery imported from the Mediterranean were left behind by those who lived here. It was probably memories of this seat of Cornish kings that inspired the 12th-century writer Geoffrey of Monmouth to name it in his History of the Kings of Britain as the place where King Arthur was conceived, with the help of Merlin. At the same time, Cornish and Breton writers linked the love story of Tristan and Iseult with Tintagel. In turn, these associations with legend led the hugely rich and ambitious Richard, Earl of Cornwall, to build a castle here in the 1230s. The site was of no military value – legend alone seems to have inspired him to build here. And long after the castle had fallen into decay, its mythical associations kept interest in Tintagel alive. Loe edasi...

 

Kuningas Arthuri kantsi varemetel

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Kunstniku visioon...

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Bathi inimtühjadel tänavatel...

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Päeva lõpuks ikka f....ja tsipsid. Kõik tänavailt kadunud inimesed vaatasid kõrtsus jalgpalli...

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10.05.2017. Bath - London

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Kasutaja Sulev Nurme foto.

YHA Hostel. Bath. Dejavu....Hommikul aeda minnes jõudis järsku pärale, et olen siin olnud... AD 2006, Inglise pargitripi ajal...

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Kasutaja Sulev Nurme foto.

YHA Hostel. Bath. Härrased naudivad hetke päikesepaistes peale kosutavat hommikueinet

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London...

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Kohustuslik kesklinna ekskursioon Janikale

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Kasutaja Sulev Nurme foto.

Camden Market

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II korrusel

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11.05.2017. London

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I dreamt we were standing
By the banks of the Thames
Where the cold grey waters ripple
In the misty morning light
Held a match to your cigarette
Watched the smoke curl in the mist
Your eyes, blue as the ocean between us
Smiling at me

 

/.../

Pogues. Misty Morning, Albert Bridge
 

Kasutaja Sulev Nurme foto.

(Misty) morning...

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/.../

 

Step on a plane
And fly away
I'll see you then
As the dawn birds sing
On a cold and misty morning
By the Albert Bridge
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Pogues. Misty Morning, Albert Bridge
 

(Misty) morning...

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Lisalugemist

 Eelmine  |  Üles

 

Cornwall

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Viimati täiendatud: 30 juuni 2017

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